Lost and Found in a Cuban Market
On my last day in Cuba I strolled through Vedado, a Havana neighborhood dominated by crumbling mansions from the early 20th century. The air was thick with humidity and every time I stepped out from under the leafy protection of the trees that lined the sidewalks, I was greeted with the unrelenting Caribbean sun.
I walked block after block in the heat. My sandal began to rub the side of my foot and my sweaty shirt glued itself to my skin. But I was undeterred. I’d heard there was a big, outdoor vegetable market within walking distance of the casa where I was staying and I was dying to see it.
Hung Out To Dry
So on I walked, past houses with laundry hanging from the windows and kids playing marbles in the street. When I got to the cross street where the market was supposed to be there was nothing there. Just a sad looking apartment building with a broken down Lada parked in the drive.
Ration Store Advertising Yogurt
I almost felt like crying. I’d visited farms and farm stands, bought fruit from vendors yelling out, “Mango! Mango!” in the streets, and observed Cubans patiently standing in line at ration stores. But I hadn’t been to a market and I really wanted to see one. Just as I was about to give up and catch a cab into Havana Vieja, I spied an old man carrying a bag with the green fringe of carrot tops poking out. Ah ha! I knew the market had to be close.
Gorgeous Grapes
I found it one block further down and on the other side of the street. My sleuthing and persistence paid off. The covered outdoor space was filled with all sorts of vegetable vendors, who were joking and laughing and negotiating with customers. Below you’ll find some photos I took inside. I hope you enjoy your virtual visit! If you’re ever in Havana this market is on the corner of 19 and A in Vedado and well worth a visit.
Avocados and Carrots, Oh My!
Sweet, Sweet Mangos. Two for 25 Cents!
Ripe and Green Plantains
Mystery Fruit and Corn
Anyone know what this fruit is? To eat it you break off the individual nubbins and suck the sweet white flesh off of a black seed. Tasty, but it requires almost as much effort to eat as a pomegranate.
Beans, Anyone?
It is so great to hear about your Cuban adventures. Completely off topic, but still yet on topic- do you know of any great CSAs here in the Seattle area? I’m in Wallingford and would LOVE to get a big box o’ something every month. Problem is, a lot of the ‘CSA’s I’ve looked into seem to be more like produce delivery services, or at least a lot of them resort to importing veggies etc at times from out of state (and out of country). I knew this great CSA down in Oregon that started firing up a wood stove and brewing beer to suppliment the CSA boxes in the winter- know any places like that?
August 18th, 2009 at 5:24 pmThanks Willi!
your mystery fruit is called custard apples, atleast here in australia.
August 18th, 2009 at 6:32 pmTo Sandra: I think if you visit the Farmers markets in U district and/or Ballard there are producers there who are CSA’s that you can sign up with. Check it out.
August 18th, 2009 at 9:15 pmI’m pretty sure the fruit is a cherimoya. I bought one for the first time at a farmers market this year in California. http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/cherimoya.html
August 18th, 2009 at 9:32 pmI love going to markets like that. They are so much fun and so interesting.
August 19th, 2009 at 5:40 amSandra, here’s a good resource for finding CSAs all over the USA: http://www.localharvest.org/
I subscribe to the farm girl collective CSA; everything comes from Carnation. I pick up a fantastic box every Sunday at the Ballard Farmer’s Market. (They have others as well). More info on them here: http://farmgirlcsa.com/farmgirls.php
Oh, and yes on the Cherimoya…it is an odd custardy fruit!
August 19th, 2009 at 8:16 amit is called a cherimoya, AKA custard apple:)
August 19th, 2009 at 9:55 amThanks for solving the mystery, guys! I knew someone would know the answer! As for the CSA, I haven’t been a part of a CSA here because we love to go to the farmer’s market. But I hear that Whistling Train Farm has a good one.
August 19th, 2009 at 10:21 amCustard apple! I ate SO many of them in Vietnam.
August 19th, 2009 at 12:38 pmlet’s get some cuban recipes!!!!!!
August 19th, 2009 at 11:20 pmOoh, Adelaide. We think alike. I’m currently working on trying to recreate some of the food I ate in Cuba. They cook a lot in the pressure cooker, so I’ve dug mine out and am about to put it though a work out!
August 20th, 2009 at 9:50 amPressure cookers terrify me. But, for a good Cuban recipe from a trusted source, I just might take the risk. Love the market photos. I’m drooling!
August 20th, 2009 at 7:20 pmPressure cookers are like the original microwave. You can have a complete one pot dinner in under 20 minutes. Be not afraid, you daring cooks out there; go for it, you will love it! Try out “The Best Pressure Cooker Cookbook Ever” by Pat Dailey. It will put all your fears to rest.
August 20th, 2009 at 8:02 pmmmmm. cherimoya!! I fell in love with those in Chile.
August 25th, 2009 at 4:12 pmIn portuguese that fruit is called “Pinha” or “Fruta do Conde”. As you said, it takes some effort to eat, although it´s compensated with a very sweet taste, far different and much better than a pomegranate. Great blog, congrats and cheers from Brazil.
September 1st, 2009 at 7:07 pm[...] (Source) Market selling plantains in Cuba [...]
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